The Perfect Catch

LONG BEFORE PJ Calapa was appointed Executive Chef at Manhattan’s esteemed Marea, known for its sophisticated Italian coastal cuisine, his culinary education began early. Growing up working in his grandfather’s Texas Gulf Coast fish business, he learned to judge quality through intuition and a few tricks of the trade. “I was taught at a very early age how to spot quality in fish—what signs to look for without having to filet the fish,” Calapa says. “Tricks were eyes and gills—eyes should be clear, not cloudy; gills should be bright red.” He also recalls, “I once was yelled at by an associate at Whole Foods for looking at the fish’s gills—‘Sir, please don’t touch the fish,’” he shares.

Though Marea’s menu leans coastal Italian, Calapa’s culinary DNA is steeped in Tex-Mex tradition. His grandmother’s Brownsville kitchen—a world of cast-iron skillets and communal meals—shaped his approach to food as an expression of love. “My grandmother’s inspirations will go with me forever—they have influenced every menu I’ve ever written,” he reflects. “Maybe not so directly as a dish or a recipe, but as an approach to a kitchen way of life; a level of respect and a love for sharing with friends and family.” This familial connection drives Marea’s dishes, where simplicity and generosity collide. Even the most refined crudo carries the warmth of a South Texas table.

CONNECTING CONCEPTS

Calapa’s time at Nobu 57 refined his technical skills, but his Gulf Coast upbringing is the cornerstone of his culinary compass. “Growing up on the Texas Gulf Coast, constantly being surrounded by fresh seafood, it was hard not to be pulled in that direction,” he explains. At Marea, he skillfully blends Japanese precision with coastal intuition, shown in creations like the branzino tartare. Calapa adds, “I don’t normally blend the cuisine of each tradition, but I have created dishes that are philosophically South Texan, technically precise like in Japan and fit right into the cuisine of southern Italy.”

In 2016, Calapa moved beyond the safety of the Altamarea Group, where he initially helped open Ai Fiori, one of the group’s restaurants, to launch his own establishments, including the tavern-style venue The Spaniard. This leap into entrepreneurship reshaped his identity. “Once I left, I was no longer just the chef. I had to become much more,” he recalls. “I became an accountant, plumber, lawyer and florist, to name a few, overnight!” These diverse roles grounded Calapa’s leadership, and when he returned to Marea, another of Altamarea Group’s venues, in 2021, he balanced reverence with innovation. “I always respected Marea and its menu, and knew I’d keep the signatures and introduce new dishes that would become signatures too. Marea is the best stage in New York City—it’s perfect for me.”

SUBURBAN INSPO

Calapa’s move to Short Hills, where he has lived for nine years, brought unexpected inspiration. “The influence is more outside cooking, more live fire,” he says, mentioning backyard grilling sessions that now inform Marea’s wood-fired dishes. His family’s multicultural table (South Texan meets Indian) keeps creativity alive. “My kids are starting to get involved with us cooking, and to understand what great food can do for the soul,” he says. Weekends involve farmers’ markets with his kids, P.K. (12) and Shayla (8). “They keep me grounded—my family has inspired my cooking by giving me a very strong foundation.”

After 21 years cooking in Manhattan, Calapa embraces the city’s trend toward more unpretentious dining. “I’m excited about a return to fun dining— an experience for all senses,” he says. “If you love something, stick around. It’ll probably come back.”

If given the chance, Calapa would revisit his grandmother’s arroz con pollo, slightly elevated but still rooted in tradition. “It’s her dish; I just chef’d it up a bit,” he says. “I was very lucky to have her up until recently to help guide me through this journey. She’d be surprised by how competitive New York is—but never by how I’ve handled it.”

BY EVE GOLDEN